Bearded Dragon: Caring For Your New Pet (Reptile Care Guides)

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Did you know that bearded dragons can grow to be approximately 30—60 cm long? You need to make sure you provide your bearded dragon with a tank or suitable enclosure that will best fit their needs.

The Ultimate Guide To Bearded Dragon Care

A 50—gallon tank is the recommended minimum size, but if you have a dragon that is 50—60 cm, they will require a gallon tank. There are several types of enclosures you can use — glass aquariums, melamine cages, PVC cages, and vision cages. Always make sure your tank has a cover. Appropriate humidity and temperature. Bearded dragons come from the desert, so they require low humidity in their enclosures.

How To Potty Train A Baby Bearded Dragon! (Bearded Dragon Diet/Care)

This allows the dragon to control its body temperature. Bearded dragons have a preferred body temperature of 34—35 degrees C. The right kind and amount of lighting is critically important for dragons, because it helps them to make vitamin D, which they need to help them absorb calcium. Lights should be kept on for 12 hours a day and turned off at night. Hide box. Bearded dragons should be given a place where they can have alone time, away from people and light so they feel safe and secure.

This encourages relaxation and reduces stress levels.

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Appropriate choices for substrate include newspaper, paper towelling or reptile carpet if using the latter, make sure there are no loose threads or areas that can catch on dragon toenails. All food should also be small enough for your dragon to eat. Young bearded dragons should be fed approximately three to five times a day.

They also require more insects than vegetables to help them grow. Adult dragons should be fed approximately twice a day. Your bearded dragon should visit a reptile veterinarian once or twice a year to make sure they remain healthy and happy. Bearded dragons are probably the most popular pet lizard and this is not without good reason.

Caring for Baby Bearded Dragons: The Ultimate Beginner's Guide

A large majority of Bearded Dragon owners will start with a beardy which may only be a few weeks old. In the wild, Bearded Dragons inhabit the semi-arid woodlands and rocky deserts of Central Australia. They are a medium sized lizard, reaching approximately 2ft in length, with about half of that accounted for by the tail.

The life expectancy of a bearded dragon tends to be around 10 years, though some have been known to live longer than 15 years!

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Bearded dragons communicate through visual displays, both for breeding purposes and dominancy determination. These displays may include arm waving, head bobbing and colour changes. Vivarium: Most new starters are unsure what size vivarium to get for their beardy and that all depends on the size of the dragon.

Heating Sources: This all depends on the size of the vivarium and the size of reptile, but there are many heat lamps available online or in reptile stores. A lot of users stock infra-red and moonlight bulbs which are great for smaller enclosures, but if these are not powerful enough to heat a larger enclosure, then the best option may be to use Ceramic heat bulbs. The best temperature to have from the heat source is around 84 degrees and the ideal way of keeping the temperature at that level is by using thermostats.

Thermostats are genuine lifesavers when it comes to keeping reptiles! They can be used to control heat sources and there is a thermostat suitable for virtually all heat sources, including incandescent and infra-red bulbs, ceramic hearts and bulbs, heat mats and heat strips. Thermostats come in two ranges; either standard or digital. Essentially, both ranges do the job of controlling your heat sources as well as each other, however digital forms offer a bit more with regard to user feedback and programming options. Heat mats are also suitable for being placed inside a wooden vivarium as a hot-spot and are safe for use with most species.

They do not overheat and therefore rarely need to be combined with a mat-stat, unless the heat mat is heating a small enclosure with little ventilation. It is important for them to gain their source of protein, and without it you could find them becoming unhealthy.

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The crested gecko, Rhacodactylus ciliatus , is quickly gaining popularity in the pet trade, for good reason. So called "cresties" have some of the most simple care requirements of any lizards. They need no special heating or lighting; in fact, temperatures above 80 degrees F will stress them. They can be fed simple, packaged, fruit-based powders mixed with water; meaning no insects or difficult diets to worry about!

Crested geckos come in a variety of colors and patterns, from stripes to spots to everything in between. They are handleable and can be easily tamed but are small and more delicate than the larger lizards. They are prone to the accidental loss of their tails which will not harm them but will not regrow.

Bearded Dragon Facts

Pros: Most simple of lizard care requirements; no supplemental heating or lighting, simple mix-with-water diet. The Argentine black and white tegu, Tupinambis merianae , is the largest lizard on our best pet list. It is important to note that adult tegus require more space than the average owner is willing to provide, but if that isn't an issue for you then a tegu might be a great choice as a pet lizard.

Tegus are one of the smartest reptiles, able to learn simple tricks and to respond to the sound of their names. Typically calm, tegus properly socialized from a young age can learn to walk on a harness and be handled with great frequency. It should be noted that there are multiple tegu species; Columbian tegus are NOT recommended as a good pet lizard. These black and white cousins are often aggressive and difficult to care for. Minimum Cage size as adults: foot x 2 foot wide cage or larger larger necessary for adult males.

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What qualifies a lizard as a bad pet? Many commonly available reptiles, unfortunately, are just not suited for an life in captivity. Just because a lizard is inexpensive or regularly seen in pet shops does not mean it will make a good pet. Large size, bad temperaments, aggressiveness, difficult care requirements, and many other factors were taken into account in the creation of this list of "bad pet" lizards. As a note, we are not saying that these species should never be kept, but that they are more difficult and suited for advanced, experienced keepers only. Green iguanas are one of the most common and inexpensive reptiles available on the market today, which is a shame.

These beautiful lizards are intelligent and sociable but they get BIG. Even tame iguanas can cause nasty cuts and slashes by accident and should only be handled by adults.

Bearded Dragon Care Sheet: How To Care for a Bearded Dragon?

The cute, small babies grow fast and planning to "upgrade someday" does not work for them. Because of the huge requirement for time and space that iguanas require, they are at the top of our "bad pet" choices. Cons: Size, aggressiveness if not regularly handled or with breeding males , big commitment, high maintenance. This is truly unfortunate because they grow into large, powerful lizards capable of inflicting a nasty bite and even breaking bones with a tail whip and the low cost creates a lot of uninformed impulse buys and abandoned adult lizards.

They are one of the better pet monitors but are not for the beginning keeper. Savannah monitors require huge cage spaces and experienced handling.